P50 Cruiser, what’s it abouT?

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Our all new P50 Cruiser has been around now for a few weeks, and we’ve been thrilled to bits and pieces about how popular this particular model has shown to be!

There were a number of features we specifically set out to achieve with the creation of the P50. Firstly, after trolling the inna-net for vintage naked motorcycle frames, we really wanted this design to have a look that says “geez its like an engine has come outta that!”. Hence the swooping down tube, and the rolled long curve through top tube, big wheelbase and ducktail mudguards.

Secondly, we wanted to keep the entry price point down. To ensure this could happen we elected to build the frame in lightweight hi-ten tig welded steel, with old school one piece cranks, high quality steel hubs, no gears (duh) and PVC saddles.

Third of all we wanted the branding to be bigger, and very Aussie. Thanks to our old mates Josh ‘Ruffo’ Rufford and Gary of Loa Branding the boyZ nailed it.

And finally, in typical JubE fashion the wheels needed to be wide! We opted away this time from superfat tyres to moving toward a more modern look with wider 50mm wide rims (actual outside diameter is closer to 60mm) with thinner tyres, for that low profile, squarer drift tyre look. Nice.The end result is a quality old school well priced super comfy cruiser. So then you’s ask, how does it ride?

Like all steel frame street cruisers, beach cruisers, Lowriders etc the ride is laid back and very cruisy. And yes just like the old cruisers you can hear the slight echo of the chain turning over the front and rear cogs underneath the chain guard, and the occasional stone ping underneath and wheels rolling under the mudguards as you cruise down the street. The gearing is 44/18t and is fine for medium size hills and slow to medium speed cruising. The saddles are wide, soft and comfy. It’s the sort of bike you put a rack on the back of, a kids seat or a basket up front and still look super duper trouper cool. The wheel base is long which does mean you’s do need to allow for a larger turning circle – lol. Surprisingly, with all the gear it has attached this bad boy is super light for a typical cruiser weighing just 17kgs, so it ain’t no mongrel to lift on and off the car rack, ute etc. The front brake is 160mm rotor disc, and while it’s not downhill standard it does assist the rear coaster (back pedal) brake to pull you up quick if old mate scrub turkey jumps out in frunna ya.

The cool part about this model is that it allows various build options wth different parts etc. Prices start at $379 for ‘STOCKO’ models and the top of the range ducKs nuTs ‘HustleR’ sells for $569 inc springer forks, cowhide saddle and LED headlight inclusive of Australia wide freebie shipping. An electric version is currently being worked on as we type, and should be available in the next few months. The best bit, like all our models we offer a limited lifetime warranty on frame and forks and 12 months on all parts.

Happy cruisin’!

Love JiM x

More deets: http://www.jubecustoms.com.au

 

 

ThE New Fat…

imageSo there’s fat bikes erry-where these days…

When we first came out with the StrEEt CruisEr way back in 2011 peeps all around the globe laughed their guTs out at us. Who’s gonna ride that? No-ones gonna buy a bike with tyres ThAt fat! Well we all know how that one worked out 😏

So where to for 2016? We reckon chubby rubber is here to stay, all be it for a while anyways. There’s a lot that makes sense about big tyres, and let’s face it they look bloody cool – simple.

Having said that like everything that’s in fashion, it’s only a matter of time before its gets into the wrong hands. Once them cheap department stores start changing their stock and following suit, then that’s when it all starts to spiral out of control – but not in a good Frid’y nite kinda way.

Ok, so you’s can buy a big arse diRt ChEap fatty just about anywhere. However – Super STylin’ is still kinG!

We reckon the trend is moving toward wider rims around 50-70mm with narrower rubber say 2.125/2.35/2.5″. It’s an awesome look, the profile of the tyre inflated is lower and more square above the rim – almost a drift tyre look used by them amazing dudEs on those RatRod websites. The look is wayyyy slick, super smoove with low roll resistance, yet still kiCk aRse mean.

White walls are a great old school nu school way to show off these wider rims, as is anything in black with shmokin’ side wall decals. Less is more in many cases, and this is a great example friends.

Keep an eye out for our new model P50 Ride releasing early 2016!

Ciau x

 

EveryFink old is nu agaiN!

After nearly 5 years since creation we’ve decised to move on to a bran nu website…featuring  a whole lotta new products, services and heaps of other super duper cool stuff.

Its not that there was anything wrong with the old site, Dave and the lads @ Vivo did an awesome job on the original version – thanks sooooo much fellas…! As time passes, it’s now time for a freshen up, including bigger pics, more products, increased payment options at the out-check and heaps more info so you’s as customers, are bettered equipped to consider purchAsing our products.

One area we have been working on the last few years has been restorations, where we take customers old ridEs and make ’em all bran spankin’ nu again (well best we can…). This service is now featured on the site under the STOREHOUSE drop down box.

Another new service that many peeps didn’t know we offered is manufacturing. We can actually assist with bran nu ideas, right through to large scale manufacturing overseas. All the deets of how we can help out are also on the new site!

As many of you’s know, when we make a model we do so in limited numbers in order to keep our stock fresh and our products unique…the new site has all our old customs and previous models pictured under THE VAULT…hours of entertainment there hey…..

We’re also now better equipped to offer more specials, sales items, stocK clearances and so on. Exciting!

Hyuuuuge thanks to our old matE JoshEE LittlEr for a sensational-ness job, couldn’t have done it without ya dudE!

So please, shop our stuff…we hope you likEy! 😃

 

 

Arc Up! The Jube Electric Bike has arrived!

For yonks now we’ve been getting asked when are you’s guys gonna put a motor on wunna your rides?

Well we did….and we’re pretty stoked at the result too. Because our stuff has all the chubby features and the Cafe Racer/Dragster themes, our bikes I guess you could say were crying out for an electric conversion.

Let’s face it, most electric bikes are butt ugly! For some reason there is this obsession to either make them look like a ten tonne space ship, or the over engineered look which I guess helps justify the often offensive price tag they come with.

Our entry into the electric bike arena is with our stocko HardTail model. A hybrid Cruiser-BMX-Jump bike with a super strong chromoly 4130 frame, 24×3″ rear chubby rubber on a wide 55mm rim and double clamp rigid chrome forks.

After shopping the market and looking at build options, we opted for a front drive Dillinger kit. The end result was awesome. The whole set up just suits a single speed configuration. Gear ratios are 44/16t.

Co-designed by our qualified bike mechanic/electrician Pauli, the build features a tank like battery nicely mounted on the top tube. Having the drive in the front hub also makes for a great balance between front and rear. After stuffing around for many hours on final finish, Pauli has welded and drilled ensuring all cables and wires are tidy and schmick as within the frame.

With it’s throttle shifter top speed on flat without pedaling is 32km/h. Battery life is as long as 80km! And overall it’s bloody quiet as and smooth as! Best of all because we powdercoat all our frames here in Aust you’s can choose whatever colours are available on the charts. SwEEt!

Our demo model pictured is featured in custom matte black, with chrome forks, bars and rear rim. Saddles are cowhide leather and come in either black or brown, in a variety of styles. Final weight is around 23kgs which is lighter than many rusty old council hire bikes.

If you’s are gonna ride an electric or EBike, then sheesh it may as well look good! Prices start complete for $2399.00 which also makes this bad boY great value.

Happy Eco everyone’s!

RaisinG thE Dead!

HowdEE FrienDs!

For those of you’s who are old enough to have been left a Dragster under the tree in the 70’s, and even if you’re not…there’s nuthin like the pure excitement you get when u spot wunna these babies at a garage sale, the dump or local shopping centre carpark. Full of rust, bent rims and bits, you still can’t get past that swooping frame and those high rise bars…and the need to take this wreck home and fix ‘er up is just too much to handle…so’s you do. 😏

Most of these finds are a mess, and unless you’ve been lucky enough to find one mummified then chances are there’s gunst to be a huge job ahead. And the first thing that comes to mind is how much is all this gonna cost?! Well, we’ve restored heaps of these bad boYs so here’s some tips that might just stop Ya searchin’ for Nanna’s pills…

Best results are achieved if you can restore the existing parts as much as possible. Original is KinG! And they fit best. Mostly frames are rusty. If possible it is better not to re-spray, however most of the time this ain’t possible.

If the frame is rusty the best way to remove rust thoroughly is by sandblasting. If the rust hasn’t penetrated too deeply then the end result should be smooth ready for priming and re-painting. We’ve always used powdercoating as it provides the strongest finish. Choose a colouR that suits and Bobs Ya brother in law. All these processes can be done at the same place. Having said that, we had a frame once absolutely covered in heavy rust…a real cot case…andafter sandblasting the frame it still had pock marks all over. Solution, we picked a matte black powdercoat with a sand finish (YEP the ridE in the pics here!) – Sable Black. Once the frame was powdercoated you’d never know hey! We even did the bars and headstem too…Looked mint!

For rims and bars etc typically chrome – then WD40 and superfine steel wool grade 00-0 are your bestest frienDs. Spray the rusted area and use a small piece of steel wool and again provided the chrome is not too rusted these bits will polish up as shiny as nu! A much cheaper solution to re-Chroming, which these days it’s hard to find someone who will even do that gig, as that stuff can cause some funKy chillin’ they RecKon…

Try to remove parts like cranks, bottoms brackets and bearings carefully as I said  its best to re-use as much as possible. If yOU’s don’t think you’ll remember how they all go back in then take pics.

Now, this is where another old mate joins the shin dig, Kerosene. Grab a plastic container and poor the Kero like a barman on a Hen’s niTe. Carerefully place all the dirty, rusted parts into the Kero (chains too) and let soak for at least 24hours. When the bits have all been left to soak they should look heaps cleaner and dirt free. Rinse all parts  in warm water and dry thoroughly with a rag. Here’s where you’s can assess any damage, and also replace older style bits like loose ball bearings (which probs flew everywhere on removal) with new parts like bearings in a race – cheap as and when re-assembled goes back together sweet as – without the need to swear or nothing.

Bran nu parts I reckon are a must to use and are as cheap as fries to buy are pedals, grips, tyres. There are replica (like that word) parts around these days so you’s don’t spoil the end result. The finish then is clean and shmicK – looking like nu!

For extra attention and finishing the Reno off shmicK jump online like eBay and buy some replica decals, YEP they make ’em just like the old ones.

When finished these rides are awesome as…and can be worth a lot of brass too. But the best bit is the project itself, cause it’s great FuN fixing up history!

KEEp Rollin,

JiM x

Let’s talk ChuBBy!

Yo!

Lots of questions are asked – what’s the go with the fat tyres man? They must be a bitCh to ride?!

Here’s the thing, if you’s are riding chubby rubber and they’re slicks then your fine. By chubby I mean anything 3″ or wider. By slicks I mean no bumpy nobby off-roady lumpy stuff, just smooth tread all round. For all our fat tyre models we use either Innova or Wanda – and you’ll usually find that provided full inflation is used (ie 35-40psi) these bad boYs roll as smooth as custard rollin off mums hot apple pie…if not better than them nobby jobs…here’s a recent example:

Mmmm ’bout three months ago I switched the front rubber on me old trustY Hardtail from its original Innova 26×2.35 slick to a slightly nobby mtb style 26×2.35 Black Hawk “Jumper”. First thing I noticed was the noise! WaSSat sound – hmmmmmm hmmmmmm hmmmm. Second thing that was really obvious was the roll resistance on concrete was noticeably worse, could feel it in me legs! Mind you, as soon as I ventured off road onto loose surface the Black Hawk was superior-ness. I guess the point I’m making here is IF you are using road/concrete as the main surfaces then slick is better by far…and chubby at that.

Fat tyres are huge now, and heaps of dudes are keen as Hot English Mustard (my fav) to switch to chubby. Just be careful, anything 3″ and over is supEr dupEr wide…and you’re gunst to need dropouts at least 85-90mm wide at the chain-stay and seat-stay – otherwise these babies are gonna rub like a thick thigh in lycra…and next thing you know it’s time to be bendin’ frames – now that’s profesh stuff that is!

Looks are everything…if you do end up fitting something chubby say only on one wheel, then have a good look at the other wheel in comparison. When u fit chubby to an existing wheel because of the higher profile the end result is that the wheel fitted with chubby rubber increases disproportionately (another big word) compared to the matching wheel. You’s probs already noticed we use larger wheels on the front for our Hardtail and Dragster models to keep real a nice balance…eg 22/20″ and 26/24″. There are currently fat tyre bikes shooting around with 26×4″ combos both front and rear, with nobby style rubber – sand and snow stuff. I get em, but in my opion-ness there’s a point where there’s too much going on and style becomes how much is in ya face. For me 24×4.25″, 24×3″ & 20×3″ are three slicK arse looking wheel combos to work with.

So I guess the rant here is to say don’t be put off by all the chatter-ness about chubby rubber if your main form of travel is road etc. they’re quiet, smooth, fast and cool.

Stay LubEd!

JiM

Welcome-ness FrienDs!

Heeeey!

Yer I know, where’s the Blog been JiM? Well frienDs – no excuses no more – here it is!

Let’s get stucK into it – what’s the go with JubE and this blog? So many people are confused about what we build and why. Simple-ness really, if Ya gonna ride Ya may as well look good. For years I’ve thought how come when I go to a bikE store, they all look the same, and how come I can’t custom my ride??? It’s like one style fits all…oh please!!! Plus besides lOOkin’ the BiZnESs bikes have to be quality built as well. So when we design our rides we go for individuality (big word) AND quality.

One of the coolest parts about being at JubE is we get to work with so many awesome people…like dudEs who can seriously draw, design and build. Over the coming months I wanna chew the fat about all sorts of stuFF which I think is interesting and at times pretty funny too…and, maybe even educational (if I can word it all right)! We’ll also pass on super duper swEEt advice and stuff from all them cool dudEs I mentioned, plus the occasional rant just for the helluvit…!

Anyways, at least there’s a start, more to come soon so pleasE keep those eyeballs peeled!

ChEErs

JiM JunKEe – CEO/Founder JubE Customs